A Foodie’s Guide to Adana

By All Over InformationUpdated 7 min read

For the foodie, Adana is one of the great destinations of the world’s food — a city where the cuisine is the identity, and the grill is the religion. The Adana kebab alone would put the city on the map; the ciğer, the mezes, and the local specialties build the reputation further. The food of Adana is the food of the coals and the spice — the cuisine of the south, served in the kebab houses that the city treats as its temples. This guide is the foodie’s route through the southern city: the essential dishes, the places of their perfection, and the structure of the food day that tastes the city whole. Here is the foodie’s guide to Adana.

The Adana Kebab: The Dish of the City

The Adana kebab is the reason the foodies come to the city — and the benchmark of the cuisine. The dish is the hand-kneaded minced lamb: the meat of the shoulder, mixed with the tail fat and the hot pepper, seasoned with the salt and the spice, and pressed onto the wide metal skewers. The grilling is the craft: the skewers turned over the charcoal, the fat dripping and flaring, and the meat charred at the edges and tender within. The serving is the ritual: the kebab laid on the lavash bread, with the grilled peppers and the tomatoes, the sumac onions, and the şalgam — the purple turnip juice that cuts the heat. The great kebab houses of Adana serve the dish in its purest form, and the connoisseur measures the city by the first bite of its famous kebab.

The Ciğer: The Second Great Grill

The ciğer — the lamb liver kebab — is the second great dish of Adana, and the dish of the connoisseurs. The liver of the city is the fresh lamb liver, cleaned and cut into the small pieces, skewered, and grilled over the coals — the quick cooking that keeps the liver tender within. The ciğer is served with the onions, the sumac, the parsley, and the flatbread, with the lemon to squeeze over the top. The ciğer houses of the city serve the dish in its pure form — the skewers from the grill, the plates of the liver, and the tables of the regulars. The ciğer is the dish of the evening and the late night — the second taste of the Adana grill, and the favorite of the locals.

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20101106 Galata Tower Istanbul Turkey Panorama in Adana, Turkey
20101106 Galata Tower Istanbul Turkey Panorama — photo by User:Ggia, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The Mezes of the Table

The mezes of Adana — the starters of the southern table — are the flavors of the region: the dips, the salads, and the small dishes that open the meal. The essential mezes of the Adana table: the acılı ezme (the pounded dip of the tomatoes, the peppers, and the herbs, with the heat of the region), the hummus of the chickpeas, the baba ghanoush of the smoked eggplant, the haydari of the yogurt and the herbs, and the salads of the plain. The mezes are served with the flatbread and the drinks — the rakı of the table, or the ayran of the cool. The meze spread of Adana is the opening act of the meal: the flavors of the south, in the small dishes of the sharing.

The Local Specialties

The cuisine of Adana holds the local specialties that go beyond the grill. The şırdan — the stuffed tripe of the region, filled with the spiced rice and the herbs, and grilled — is the dish of the adventurous, the taste of the region’s tradition. The analı kızlı — the “mother and daughter” soup of the small meatballs and the bulgur pearls — is the comfort of the home cooking. The paça — the soup of the sheep’s trotters, the breakfast of the tradition — is the warming dish of the morning. And the pastries of the region — the içli köfte (the stuffed bulgur shells), the manti of the small dumplings — complete the local table. The local specialties of Adana are the depths of the cuisine: the dishes of the region, in the houses of the tradition.

Kurdish refugees travel by truck, Turkey, 1991 in Adana, Turkey
Kurdish refugees travel by truck, Turkey, 1991 — photo by PHAN April Hatton, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Breakfast of the South

The breakfast of Adana is the breakfast of the south, with the local character: the spread of the cheeses, the olives, the eggs, and the sucuk and the pastırma — and the local touches of the region. The breakfast houses of the city serve the morning table: the tea, the cheeses of the region, the kaymak and the honey, and the dishes of the south. And the kebab houses of the city serve the breakfast of the kebab-eaters: the kebab of the morning, for the ones who cannot wait for the evening. The breakfast of Adana is the morning of the south: the full table, the strong tea, and the start of the day before the heat.

The Şalgam and the Drinks

The drinks of Adana are the essential companions of the food. The şalgam — the fermented turnip juice, with the carrots and the salt — is the traditional drink of the city: the tangy, the salty, and the perfect match for the kebab. The ayran — the salted yogurt drink — cools the coals of the meal. And the fresh juices of the plain — the pomegranate, the orange, and the fruits of the region — refresh the afternoons. The drinks of the Adana table are the context of the cuisine: the şalgam with the kebab, the ayran with the ciğer, and the juices of the plain with the days of the heat.

Rail travel in Turkey banner Firat Express at Elazig in Adana, Turkey
Rail travel in Turkey banner Firat Express at Elazig — photo by Kabelleger / David Gubler, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The Sweets of the City

The sweets of Adana end the meal with the flavors of the region. The künefe — the hot pastry of the shredded dough and the melted cheese, baked and soaked in the syrup, and served with the pistachios — is the great sweet of the south: the salty-sweet of the cheese and the sugar, the hot from the oven. The bici bici — the summer dessert of the crushed ice and the starch, with the syrup and the cream — is the refreshment of the Adana heat. And the fruits of the plain — the citrus, the pomegranates, and the melons — are the natural sweets of the season. The sweets of Adana are the closing act of the cuisine: the künefe of the evening, and the bici bici of the summer afternoons.

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The Foodie’s Route Through the City

The foodie’s Adana has its route through the city. The center holds the temples of the grill: the great kebab houses, the ciğer houses, and the meze tables of the evening. The old city holds the atmosphere of the food: the bazaar lanes, the lokantas, and the tea of the market. The neighborhoods hold the honest tables: the family restaurants, the local houses, and the breakfast spots of the districts. And the river holds the leisure of the meals: the tea gardens of the banks, and the evening tables by the water. The foodie who follows the route eats the city whole — the famous, the working, and the regional — in the rooms where the city serves them.

Rail travel in Turkey banner High-speed YHT at Bilecik in Adana, Turkey
Rail travel in Turkey banner High-speed YHT at Bilecik — photo by Kabelleger / David Gubler, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The Season of the Table

The food of Adana follows the seasons, and the foodie visits with the calendar. The summer brings the heat and the light tables: the bici bici, the salads, and the cold mezes, with the evenings of the grill. The autumn and the winter bring the heartier tables: the soups of the region, the paça of the mornings, and the kebab of the cold evenings. And the spring brings the young produce of the plain: the greens, the herbs, and the fresh flavors of the season. The foodie who follows the season tastes the city in the time of its produce — the table of the south, set by the calendar.

The Rhythm of the Foodie’s Day

There is a rhythm to the foodie’s day in Adana that carries the traveler from the table to the table. The morning belongs to the breakfast — the spread of the south, with the sucuk and the cheeses. The midday belongs to the quick grills and the lokanta — the ciğer of the working hours, and the daily dishes of the city. The afternoon belongs to the tea and the şalgam — the glasses of the gardens, and the tangy juice of the kebab houses. And the evening belongs to the coals — the Adana kebab of the great house, the mezes of the table, and the künefe of the close. The foodie who follows the rhythm tastes the city’s whole cuisine — and the food of the southern capital becomes the memory of the trip.

Frequently asked questions

What is the most famous food in Adana?

The most famous food in Adana is the Adana kebab — the spicy minced-lamb kebab grilled over the coals, served with the lavash, the sumac onions, and the şalgam juice. The city is also famous for the ciğer, the mezes of the south, and the künefe.

Where should I eat in Adana?

The essential food stops are: the great kebab houses of the center for the Adana kebab; the ciğer houses for the liver; the meze tables for the starters; and the local restaurants for the specialties like the şırdan and the analı kızlı. The künefe houses end the meal.

What should I drink in Adana?

The traditional drink of Adana is the şalgam — the fermented turnip juice that accompanies the kebab. The ayran cools the grills, and the fresh juices of the plain — the pomegranate and the orange — refresh the hot days.

All Over Information

All Over Information

The All Over Information editorial team researches and writes practical English-language guides to Turkey. Facts are checked against official and local sources before publication, prices are published as dated ranges rather than quotes, and guides are revised when things change. We accept no sponsored posts, paid placements or paid links.

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