Where to Find the Best Turkish Ice Cream (Dondurma) in Turkey
Dondurma is one of Turkey’s most beloved treats, and it is also one of its most regional.

Dondurma is one of Turkey’s most beloved treats, and it is also one of its most regional.

To eat dondurma in Turkey is to take part in a ritual. The vendor flips and stretches the ice cream on his long pole, the customer reaches and misses, the crowd laughs, and the cone finally changes hands.

Turkish ice cream, dondurma, is unlike any ice cream you have ever eaten.

Gozleme belongs to a worldwide family of stuffed flatbreads, and nearly every cuisine has one: the quesadilla of Mexico, the paratha of India, the piadina of Italy, the crepe of France.

Gozleme is one of the oldest foods still eaten in Turkey, a flatbread whose history reaches back to the nomadic past of the Anatolian plateau.

Gozleme is the great equalizer of Turkish street food: a thin, griddled flatbread stuffed with cheese, spinach, potatoes, or minced meat, cooked to order and eaten hot off the iron.

There is a smell that carries the whole of rural Turkey: the smell of dough hitting a hot griddle, of the thin bread blistering and browning over the fire.

Gozleme is the great comfort food of the Turkish countryside: a thin, hand-rolled flatbread, folded over a savory filling, and cooked on a convex iron griddle called a sac.

Fish sandwiches exist all over the world, from the battered fish and chips of Britain to the fish tacos of Mexico, and each version tells its own story.

Balik ekmek is a young dish with an old foundation.

Balik ekmek is a dish of the waterfront, and the best versions in Turkey are found where the boats land and the grills smoke.

Balik ekmek is not just the most famous sandwich in Turkey; it is a ritual of the waterfront that connects the city to its sea.
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